Creamy Smoked Haddock Risotto

The smell of smoked fish bubbling gently in milk takes me straight back to a tiny kitchen in Edinburgh, where I first watched my flatmate stir rice with the kind of patience I didn't yet understand. She moved the spoon in slow, deliberate circles, adding stock like she was conducting an orchestra. I thought risotto was fussy until I tasted that first creamy, smoky spoonful. Now it's the dish I make when I want to feel both grounded and a little indulgent.

I made this for my parents one rainy Sunday, and my dad, who usually eyes anything creamy with suspicion, went back for seconds without a word. My mum kept asking what made it taste so good, and I realized it was the poaching milk, that quiet trick of using every bit of flavor. We ate it by the window while the rain drummed on the glass, and nobody rushed. That's what this dish does—it slows time just enough.

Ingredients

• Smoked haddock fillets: Look for undyed fillets, they taste cleaner and won't turn your risotto yellow, plus the flavor is more subtle and sweet.
• Whole milk: This becomes infused with smoky goodness during poaching and adds body to the risotto without needing cream.
• Fish or vegetable stock: Keep it hot in a separate pan so the rice cooks evenly and doesn't seize up when you add cold liquid.
• Arborio or Carnaroli rice: Carnaroli holds its shape a bit better, but Arborio is easier to find and still gives that signature creaminess.
• Onion, garlic, and leek: The holy trinity here, they melt into the background and let the haddock shine without competing.
• Butter and olive oil: Start with both, the oil stops the butter from burning and the butter adds richness right from the beginning.
• Parmesan cheese: Freshly grated is non-negotiable, the pre-grated stuff doesn't melt the same way and tastes like cardboard.
• Flat-leaf parsley and lemon zest: A bright, herby finish that cuts through the richness and wakes up every spoonful.
• Black pepper and sea salt: Season at the end, the haddock and Parmesan are already salty so taste before you add more.

Instructions

Poach the haddock:

Slide the fillets into milk in a wide pan and bring it to a bare simmer, just a few lazy bubbles around the edges. After 5 to 7 minutes the fish will turn opaque and flake easily, lift it out gently and set it aside, don't toss that milk.

Soften the aromatics:

Melt butter and oil together over medium heat, then add the onion, leek, and garlic, stirring until they go soft and translucent but stay pale. This base should smell sweet and mellow, not browned or sharp.

Toast the rice:

Tip in the Arborio and stir it around for a minute or two until the grains look glassy at the edges. You'll hear a faint clicking sound as they move in the pan.

Add the poaching milk:

Pour in all that lovely smoky milk and stir until the rice drinks it up. It'll look soupy at first, then suddenly thicken as the starch releases.

Ladle in the stock:

Add the hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring often and waiting until each addition is mostly absorbed before adding the next. This is where patience pays off, it takes about 20 minutes but the rhythm becomes hypnotic.

Fold in the fish and finish:

When the rice is creamy but still has a tiny bite, gently stir in the flaked haddock, Parmesan, lemon zest, and parsley. Season carefully, then add a knob of butter if you're feeling generous.

Rest before serving:

Take the pan off the heat, cover it, and let everything settle for 2 minutes. This final rest lets the flavors marry and the texture turn silky.

Save

The first time I served this at a dinner party, one friend sat quietly with her bowl and then asked if she could take the leftovers home. She later told me she ate them cold from the fridge at midnight, standing in her kitchen in her pajamas. I think that's the highest compliment a dish can get—when someone can't wait until morning.

What to Serve Alongside

This risotto is rich enough to stand alone, but a simple green salad with lemon vinaigrette cuts through the creaminess beautifully. I like peppery arugula or watercress, something with a bit of bite. A glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Riesling mirrors the smokiness without weighing things down. If you want bread, keep it light, a crusty baguette or sourdough for mopping up the last creamy bits from the bowl.

How to Store and Reheat

Risotto thickens as it cools, so store leftovers in an airtight container in the fridge for up to two days. When you reheat it, add a splash of stock or milk in a pan over low heat and stir gently until it loosens up again. Don't microwave it on high or the rice will turn gummy and the fish will get rubbery. Honestly though, I've eaten it cold straight from the container and it still tastes good, just different.

Ways to Make It Your Own

If you can't find smoked haddock, hot-smoked salmon or even smoked mackerel work beautifully, just flake them in at the end. Swap the leek for a handful of finely sliced spring onions if that's what you have, or throw in a few peas for color and sweetness. Some people like a splash of white wine after toasting the rice, it adds acidity and makes the kitchen smell like a French bistro.

• Stir in a spoonful of creme fraiche at the end for extra tang and silkiness.
• Add a pinch of saffron to the stock for a golden hue and a subtle floral note.
• Top each bowl with crispy fried shallots or toasted breadcrumbs for texture contrast.

Save

This is the kind of dish that rewards you for showing up and paying attention, not with perfection but with warmth and flavor that lingers. Make it on a night when you have nowhere else to be, and let the stirring quiet your mind.

Recipe FAQs

→ Can I use fresh haddock instead of smoked?

Yes, but the smoky flavor will be lost. Consider adding a pinch of smoked paprika or using smoked salt to maintain the characteristic depth.

→ What type of rice works best for this dish?

Arborio or Carnaroli rice are ideal as they release starch during cooking, creating the signature creamy texture. Avoid long-grain rice as it won't achieve the same consistency.

→ How do I prevent the haddock from overcooking?

Poach gently at a low simmer for just 5-7 minutes until the fish flakes easily. Remove immediately and add it back only at the final stage to prevent it from breaking down.

→ Can I make this ahead of time?

Risotto is best served immediately. However, you can poach the haddock and prep vegetables in advance. Cook the rice fresh for optimal creamy texture.

→ What wine pairs well with smoked haddock risotto?

A crisp Sauvignon Blanc or dry Riesling complements the smoky, creamy flavors beautifully. The wine's acidity cuts through the richness while enhancing the delicate fish.

→ How can I make this dish richer?

Stir in a splash of heavy cream or an extra knob of butter at the end. You can also increase the Parmesan quantity for a more indulgent finish.